Plaza San Martín Lima and the Curious Llama of Liberty
Introduction: A Vibrant Corner in the Heart of Lima
If there’s a place in Lima that blends history, myth, and everyday city life, it’s Plaza San Martín. Located in the Lima Historic Center, this square is not only a gathering spot for locals but also one of the must-see places when travelers look up things to do in Lima.
At its heart stands the imposing monument to José de San Martín, Peru’s liberator. But look closer, and you’ll find a detail that has sparked laughter, curiosity, and debate for more than a century: a llama perched on the head of the Liberty figure beneath the general’s statue.
Legend has it this “llama” was never supposed to be there. And that quirky mix of history and myth is what makes Plaza San Martín a unique stop for anyone backpacking Peru.
A Little History: Plaza San Martín
Plaza San Martín was inaugurated on July 27, 1921, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Peru’s independence. It was designed by Spanish architect Manuel Piqueras Cotolí, who gave the square a European flair with fountains, balustrades, and symmetrical gardens.
Surrounding the plaza are landmarks like the Gran Hotel Bolívar, the Colón Theater, and the classic portales arcades, all of which contribute to its elegant atmosphere.
The centerpiece is the statue of José de San Martín, crafted by Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure. It depicts the liberator on horseback, towering over the plaza with a determined gaze — a fitting tribute to the man who declared Peru’s independence.
But tucked below that grandeur lies a playful twist: the llama.
The “Llama” on Liberty’s Head: From Fire to Animal
Beneath San Martín’s horse sits a female figure representing Liberty (or the Patria). She carries a torch and a palm branch — typical symbols of freedom. Yet, on her head, there’s an unmistakable Andean llama carved in stone.
The legend goes like this: the sculptor was instructed to place a “llama de fuego” (a flame of fire) above Liberty’s head. But in Spanish, the word llama can mean both “flame” and “llama,” the camelid native to the Andes. Supposedly, Benlliure (or one of his assistants) misunderstood the request and sculpted a literal llama — the animal — instead of a flame.
Whether true or not, the quirky mix-up has become one of Lima’s most beloved stories.
Myth vs. Reality: Mistake or Symbolism?
Here’s the thing: no historical documents confirm this was an actual mistake. Scholars argue it’s more likely that the llama was intentionally included as a national symbol. After all, the Peruvian Coat of Arms features a vicuña, another Andean camelid, as a sign of the country’s rich fauna.
Others say it doesn’t matter — what began as a joke spread across generations. Today, the “llama of Liberty” is a must-see photo spot in Lima, and guides never fail to share the anecdote.
For backpackers, it’s a perfect example of how history and humor blend in Peru’s capital.
Other Stories from Plaza San Martín
The llama isn’t the only curiosity here. Plaza San Martín has plenty of stories to tell:
The botched inauguration: At the 1921 unveiling, the covering cloth wouldn’t come off the statue. A young man named Artidoro Cossio climbed up and freed it, earning cheers from the crowd.
Gran Hotel Bolívar: This legendary hotel hosted Hollywood stars and is said to be the birthplace of the Pisco Sour cocktail.
A plaza of protest and celebration: From political demonstrations to concerts, Plaza San Martín has long been a stage for Peru’s public life.
Things to Do in Lima’s Historic Center
If you’re staying in Lima, Plaza San Martín is the perfect starting point. Nearby highlights include:
Plaza Mayor: Just 10 minutes away, with the Cathedral of Lima, Government Palace, and Archbishop’s Palace.
Jirón de la Unión: A pedestrian street linking Plaza San Martín and Plaza Mayor, filled with shops, cafés, and colonial facades.
Chinatown: Great for sampling chifa — Peru’s famous Chinese-Peruvian cuisine.
MALI (Museum of Art of Lima): A must for art lovers, located in the nearby Exposition Park.
Exploring on foot is easy and budget-friendly. Join a free walking tour Lima starting right at Plaza San Martín to learn even more.
Backpacker Tips for Visiting Lima
Stay in a social hostel: For budget travelers, staying in a cheap hostel Lima is the way to go. Pariwana Hostel Lima in Miraflores is one of the best hostels in Lima, known for its vibrant social vibe, nightly activities, and perfect mix of fun and comfort.
Stay safe: The historic center is crowded. Keep your belongings close and avoid carrying unnecessary valuables.
Getting there: From Miraflores, take the Metropolitano bus to Jirón de la Unión. It’s cheap, fast, and drops you right in the center.
Eat like a local: Around Plaza San Martín you’ll find budget-friendly eateries with classic Peruvian dishes like ají de gallina or ceviche.
Nightlife: While the plaza itself calms down at night, Miraflores and Barranco are the hotspots for backpacker parties, with everything from salsa bars to pub crawls.
The Llama as a Travel Metaphor
Whether it was a mistake or not, the llama on Liberty’s head is more than a funny story — it’s a reminder of what travel is about. Just like myths add flavor to history, your trip will be full of unexpected finds: small details, local jokes, and stories you won’t read in any guidebook.
In Lima, every corner hides a surprise. Sometimes, it’s as small as spotting a llama where you expected a flame.
Conclusion
Plaza San Martín is more than a pretty square — it’s a place where Peru’s history meets its humor. The llama on Liberty’s head is part myth, part mystery, but entirely unforgettable.
So when you’re planning your list of things to do in Lima, don’t skip this square. Snap a photo of the llama, share the story, and let yourself enjoy the mix of solemnity and playfulness that makes Lima such a fascinating stop on your backpacking Peru journey.